The Westside Buttress is a small crag in Revelstoke being developed for dry-tooling, but is also enjoyable for regular rock climbing. The best thing about this crag is you can be tying into your rope at the base of the routes in as little as 10 minutes after leaving town, so it’s ideal for a quick workout.
The rock quality is reasonably good, but caution should be used when positioning the belayer in case of falling rocks and ice. YDS grades are to be used if you climb the routes in the summer with bare hands. M grades are to be used if you climb with crampons and a combination of ice tools and hands. The rock has not been modified by drilling or chipping holds like other dry tooling crags, so the routes can feel a little “scratchy” as you would expect to find in the mountains. Please contact me if you have any feedback on grades or otherwise.
Please do not dry tool at other rock climbing areas in Revelstoke not specifically created for dry tooling, as crampons and axes damage the rock.
1.4km North along the Westside Road from the Trans Canada Highway turnoff (across the road from the Big Eddy Boulders), less than 5 minutes driving from town.
Lat/Long: 413012.40 m E 5651129.42 m N
Follow the trail (often overgrown), 1 minute from the car. It’s the obvious buttress on the west side of the road (opposite a firearms sign), 40m from the road.
1. Booya Kasha M6 or 5.12a, 28m (Alex Geary, Lee-Ann Yarrow, Denis Genton, 2013)
Gear: 11 Bolts + a couple of cams from 0.2″ to 1″
Walk left along the base of the cliff and then follow the fixed rope to the top. Follow the faint trail up left to the large tree at the base of the cliff and anchor your belayer here away from rock and icefall hazard. The start is easy (Low 5th class), but loose and best to run it out up to the first bolt. Follow the left line of bolts up the south facing wall past the obvious finger crack to the anchor.
2. Free Nelson Mandella! M7 or 5.10d, 25m (Alex Geary, Nina Lindstrom, 2015)
Gear: 9 Bolts (sport)
Clip the first bolt of Booya Kasha, then follow the right line of bolts.
3. Is Disneyland a Part of the UN? M6 or 5.10a, 28m (Alex Geary, Nina Lindstrom, 2012)
Gear: 9 Bolts + a few cams from yellow C3 to #1 Camalot
Belay from a bolt at the top of the fixed rope. From the anchor, trend right into the right facing corner and a bolt. Climb straight up over easy terrain until you see more bolts above. Follow the bolts to the top, mostly climbing on their right. Note: there is a traverse to the right before the last roof with the potential for a nasty pendulum fall.
4. Ali G M7 or 5.10b, 25m (Alex Geary, Matt Giroux 2016)
Gear: 12 bolts, cams from #0.3 to #2 Camalots, a couple of nuts
Follow the bolts up and then trending right into the large corner above. From here the crack protects well straight up to the anchor.
4. A Man More Eviler Than Skeletor M8 or 5.12a, 15m (Established: Alex Geary, Mike Mariash, 2014. FFA: Fred Giroux 2015)
Gear: 10 Bolts (sport)
Follow bolts up the face 5m left of Westside Is Da Best. Please be aware of the power-lines if you throw your rope to rappel, a better choice is to thread the rings and get lowered.
5. Westside is Da Best M6 or 5.9, 10m (Alex Geary, Nina Lindstrom, 2012)
Gear: 5 Bolts, one #2 Camalot
Start under the right hand side of the overhang and follow bolts up the right facing corner. Short but pumpy.