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The Waddington Range has some of the most spectacular mountains in Canada, with huge relief, steep faces, and large broken glaciers.

Mt Waddington is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains at 4019m elevation. A ski ascent/descent of the North West Summit (around 4000m) is achievable for most ski mountaineers in a long day with favourable conditions.

After a beautiful long helicopter flight to these remote mountains, we will set up our basecamp on the Dais Glacier. From our camp around 2000m elevation, we will have access to countless superb ski mountaineering routes including the North West Summit of Mt Waddington. Other objectives may include Brokenhead Mountain, Mt Cavalier, Jester Mountain, Mt Munday, Mt Chris Spencer, Finality Mountain, Whitetip Mountain, or even the Combatant Couloir....

All photos on this page are from a basecamp on the Dais Glacier, taken by Brian Baker, Mo Rasiah and myself.

Angel Glacier
Angel Glacier

Itinerary

May 3-12th 2022 (10 days)

Day 1: Meet at White Saddle Air (Tatla Lake, BC) at 5pm to meet the group and do some final packing.

Day 2: Fly in a helicopter to the Dais Glacier, set up basecamp, and go for a short ski tour.

Days 3-7: Ski mountaineering objectives from basecamp including the NW Summit of Mt Waddington.

Days 8-9: If the helicopter is in the area and conditions are good, we may have the opportunity to bump our camp over to the Combatant Col for an attempt on the Combatant Couloir (50 classic ski descent of North America).

Day 10: Final ski day, pack up camp and fly back to Tatla Lake in the afternoon.

(Please note: If weather and conditions are not suitable for the above, we may have to adjust our plans.)

Waddington Range
Waddington Range

Prerequisites

  • Previous ski mountaineering experience, including the use of ski crampons, boot crampons and an ice axe.
  • Ability to safely descend steep and exposed slopes up to 40 degrees in less than ideal conditions.
  • Good fitness to be able to manage a 2000m climb to the NW Summit of Mt Waddington.
  • Able to perform uphill and downhill kick-turns.

Guides

This trip will be led by myself, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain GuideAlex Geary, with help from ACMG Ski Guide Madeleine Martin-Preney, and ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide Nick Waggoner. All of us have extensive experience ski touring and mountaineering all over the world in complex glaciated terrain.

Peak 2411
Peak 2411
Mt Cavalier
Mt Cavalier

$3950 CAD per person + 5% GST                3:1 client/guide ratio

Please ensure you have read through my Booking Conditions before emailing about payment.

Included

  • Return helicopter flight to basecamp
  • Breakfasts and dinners at basecamp
  • Dining/kitchen tent
  • 3:1 guiding ratio 
  • Group gear including ropes

Excluded

  • Travel to and from Tatla Lake
  • Travel/medical/rescue insurance
  • Food and accommodation at Tatla Lake
  • Lunches/snacks while in the mountains
  • Personal equipment and 4-season tent
  • Extra helicopter fees moving basecamp to Combatant Col (if desired)
  • Extra expenses incurred due to food allergies/preferences
Mt Cavalier
Mt Cavalier
Mt Waddington
Mt Waddington
KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Equipment List

  • Shovel
  • Probe
  • Transceiver and spare batteries
  • Ski touring skis or splitboard
  • Poles
  • Skins
  • Personal repair kit specific to your equipment
  • Skin wax (or a candle)
  • Ski touring boots/plastic snowboarding boots
  • Boot crampons (compatible with your boots)
  • Ski Crampons
  • Ice axe
  • Helmet
  • Ski poles
  • Headlamp and spare batteries
  • Sunglasses
  • Goggles and/or spare sunglasses
  • Personal first aid supplies
  • Toque
  • Sun hat
  • Suncream
  • Lip balm with UV protection
  • 2 x 1L wide mouth water bottles or Thermos (NO bladders due to freezing, leaking and filling issues)
  • Gore-tex (or equivalent) jacket
  • Gore-tex (or equivalent) pants
  • Puffy jacket or two depending on thickness
  • Puffy pants (recommended for around camp)
  • Warm layers for upper and lower body adequate for below freezing temperatures and wind
  • Socks x 2-3
  • Thick gloves
  • Thin gloves
  • Spare gloves
  • Harness
  • 3 locking carabiners
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • 240cm sewn sling or equivalent
  • Personal prussik
  • 35-45L backpack
  • 4-season tent (let me know if you need to rent one)
  • Stuff sacks (or alternative) to anchor tent in snow
  • Guylines for tent
  • Sleeping Bag (at least -12 degrees)
  • Sleeping Mats (closed cell foam plus air mattress for insulation and redundancy)
  • Down/synthetic booties for wearing around camp
  • Pee bottle (recommended)
  • Lunch/snacks for 9 days of ski mountaineering (Breakfast and dinners provided)
  • Fork/spoon
  • Large bowl
  • Drinking mug with lid
  • Toiletries